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Off Grid Solar Calculator
Enter your daily energy use and location sun hours to size the solar array, battery bank, inverter, and charge controller for a cabin, tiny house, van, or full off grid home.
What an off grid solar calculator actually sizes
An off grid system has no utility connection to fall back on, so every part of it has to be sized for your real energy use. If the panels are too small, the batteries never fully recharge. If the battery bank is too small, the lights go out after one cloudy afternoon. If the inverter is too small, it shuts down the moment a pump or a microwave starts. This calculator sizes all four core parts in one pass: the solar array, the battery bank, the inverter, and the charge controller.
You give it your daily energy use, the peak sun hours where the system will sit, the number of cloudy days you want covered, and a few equipment choices. It returns the panel wattage and panel count, the battery capacity in kilowatt-hours and amp-hours, the inverter rating, and the charge controller current. The numbers are planning estimates, so treat them as the starting point for a shopping list rather than a finished wiring diagram.
The formulas behind the results
Array Watts = Daily Watt-Hours ÷ (Peak Sun Hours × (1 − Losses))
The panels have to produce your daily energy during the hours of usable sunlight, after losses are taken out. A 5,000 Wh day with 4 peak sun hours and 25% losses needs 5,000 ÷ (4 × 0.75) ≈ 1,667 W of panels.
Battery bank
Bank Wh = Daily Wh × Days of Backup ÷ Depth of Discharge
For 5,000 Wh per day, 2 days of backup, and 80% usable lithium, the bank is 12,500 Wh. Divide by system voltage to get amp-hours: 12,500 ÷ 24 ≈ 521 Ah.
Inverter and charge controller
Inverter W = Peak Load × 1.25. Controller A = Array W ÷ Voltage × 1.25
A 2,000 W peak load needs a 2,500 W inverter. A 2,000 W array on a 24 V bank needs a controller rated near 105 A.
The 1.25 factor in both lines is a common safety margin. It keeps the equipment below its limit during normal use and leaves room for cold, bright days when panels produce more current than their label suggests.
How to size an off grid system, step by step
The steps below follow the same order the calculator uses. Working through them by hand is a good way to check any result you get.
Step 1: Find your daily load. List every appliance, its wattage, and the hours it runs per day. Multiply watts by hours to get watt-hours, add them all, and divide by 1,000 for kilowatt-hours. Be honest about winter use, since lights and heating fans run longer when days are short.
Step 2: Use worst-month sun hours. A system sized for June will struggle in December. Pick the lowest month you plan to live in the property.
Step 3: Choose your days of backup. Look at how many gray days in a row your location gets. Two to three days is typical for a cabin with no generator.
Step 4: Pick battery chemistry and voltage. Lithium needs a smaller bank than lead-acid for the same load. Higher voltage keeps current, wire size, and controller cost under control.
Step 5: Size the inverter from your peak load. Count only the appliances that can run together, then add the safety margin.
Typical daily energy use for common off grid loads
These are rough figures to help you build a first load list. Check the label on your own appliances, because efficiency varies widely between models.
| Appliance | Typical Watts | Hours per Day | Approx. Wh per Day |
|---|---|---|---|
| LED lights (5 bulbs) | 50 W | 5 | 250 Wh |
| Efficient chest freezer or fridge | 60-100 W running | 8 running | 500-1,000 Wh |
| Laptop | 50 W | 6 | 300 Wh |
| Wi-Fi router | 10 W | 24 | 240 Wh |
| Water pump | 100-600 W | 0.5 | 50-300 Wh |
| Small washing machine | 500 W | 1 | 500 Wh |
| Microwave | 1,000 W | 0.25 | 250 Wh |
Heating and cooling appliances such as electric heaters, air conditioners, electric kettles, and dryers can each use more than the rest of the house combined. Off grid designs usually switch these to propane, wood, or solar thermal instead of sizing batteries and panels around them.
Worked examples
Weekend cabin: 3 kWh/day, 4 sun hours
Array: 3,000 ÷ (4 × 0.75) = 1,000 W, so 3 panels of 400 W. With 2 days of lithium backup, the bank is 3,000 × 2 ÷ 0.8 = 7,500 Wh, about 313 Ah at 24 V.
Tiny house: 6 kWh/day, 5 sun hours
Array: 6,000 ÷ (5 × 0.75) = 1,600 W, so 4 panels of 400 W. With 2 days of lithium backup on 48 V, the bank is 15 kWh, about 313 Ah.
Camper van: 1.2 kWh/day, 4 sun hours
Array: 1,200 ÷ (4 × 0.75) = 400 W, so one 400 W panel. With one day of lithium backup on 12 V, the bank is 1,500 Wh, about 125 Ah.
Same load on lead-acid: 5 kWh/day, 2 days
At 50% usable, the bank is 5,000 × 2 ÷ 0.5 = 20 kWh, compared with 12.5 kWh for lithium. The panel array stays the same, but the battery bank grows by 60%.
Common sizing mistakes to avoid
Winter sun hours can be half of summer. Size for the lowest month or plan a backup generator for the dark season.
A 10 kWh lead-acid bank only delivers about 5 kWh of healthy usable energy. Always size from usable capacity.
Pumps, compressors, and fridges pull several times their running watts for a moment. Check the inverter's surge rating.
Long low-voltage runs lose real power as heat. Higher system voltage and thicker cable both cut that loss.
More CalcMora tools for planning a solar setup
Once you know what size system you need, a few other calculators help with the surrounding decisions. If you are also weighing a grid-tied system, the solar panel savings calculator shows payback period and 25-year return from your electric bill. Long cable runs between the array and the batteries lose power, and the voltage drop calculator helps you check whether your wire is thick enough. Running a NAS or small homelab off grid adds a steady load, which the server power cost calculator converts into daily watt-hours. To learn how many hours of usable light a site gets, the sunrise sunset calculator gives exact daylight times by city. If your off grid plan involves a motorhome, the RV loan calculator covers the financing side. And because cloud cover drives how many backup days you need, the rain probability calculator is a quick way to check the weather for a planned build weekend.
Off grid solar calculator — FAQ
How do I calculate how many solar panels I need for off grid living?
Start with your daily energy use in watt-hours, then divide it by your peak sun hours and by the share of power that survives system losses. Required array watts = daily watt-hours ÷ (peak sun hours × (1 − losses)). If you use 5,000 Wh per day, get 4 peak sun hours, and assume 25% losses, you need about 1,667 W of panels. Divide that by the wattage of one panel and round up to get the panel count.
What are peak sun hours and where do I find mine?
Peak sun hours are the number of hours per day when sunlight reaches about 1,000 watts per square meter, which is the intensity solar panels are rated at. A location with 10 hours of daylight might only get 4 to 6 peak sun hours because early morning and late afternoon light is weaker. Solar maps and government solar resource tools list peak sun hours by location and month. For an off grid system, use the value for your worst month, since that is when your batteries are under the most strain.
How many days of battery autonomy should an off grid system have?
Two to three days is the common range for a home or cabin with no generator backup. One day can work for a small setup that you use mostly in summer or that has a backup generator. More days of autonomy means a bigger and more expensive battery bank, so the right number depends on how cloudy your worst stretch of weather is and how much inconvenience you can accept when it happens.
Why does battery type change the battery bank size so much?
Batteries should not be drained fully, and each chemistry has a different safe depth of discharge. Lead-acid batteries last longest when you use only about 50% of their rated capacity, so a bank has to be roughly twice the size of the energy you need. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries can usually deliver 80% or more, so the same load needs a smaller bank. This calculator uses 80% for LiFePO4 and 50% for lead-acid to keep the estimate on the conservative side.
Should I choose a 12V, 24V, or 48V system?
Higher voltage means lower current for the same power, which allows thinner wires, smaller losses, and smaller charge controllers. As a rough guide, 12V suits small loads such as vans and small cabins under about 1,500 W of solar, 24V suits mid-sized cabins, and 48V suits full homes and any array above roughly 3,000 W. If the calculator shows a very high charge controller current at your chosen voltage, step up to the next voltage.
What size inverter do I need for an off grid system?
Add up the watts of every appliance that could run at the same time, then add a safety margin of about 25% so the inverter is not working at its limit. Motors in pumps, fridges, and power tools draw a much higher surge current at startup, so check the surge rating of the inverter as well as its continuous rating. This calculator multiplies your peak load by 1.25 and rounds up to the next 100 W.
What losses should I assume in an off grid solar system?
A typical range is 20% to 30% for the whole chain. That covers panel heat, dust, wiring resistance, charge controller efficiency, battery round-trip efficiency, and inverter efficiency. The default of 25% is a sensible starting point for a well built system. Use a higher figure for hot climates, long cable runs, or older equipment.
Is this calculator enough to buy equipment and install a system?
No. It gives a solid planning estimate of array size, battery capacity, inverter size, and controller amps, but a real installation also needs correct wire gauge, fuses and breakers, panel mounting, grounding, and local code compliance. Confirm the final design with the equipment manufacturer's datasheets or a qualified solar installer before you buy or connect anything, especially for battery banks, which can deliver dangerous current.
This tool is for educational purposes only. Always verify important results with a qualified professional.